-| Trongsa |-
    Bhutan 


altitude – 2300 mts
temperature – 9 deg C / 5deg C

The journey from Punaka to Trongsa was long. Yashashree had a protracted conversation with Jamyang about everything related to Bhutan – be it politics, her King, the land, common man, education, etc. You name it and she had it covered.  At one point, I decided to catch up on my sleep ;) 

(view of Trongsa  monastery from our hotel room)

We were again going to a higher elevation and it was getting colder (as you may know, my threshold level for cold is low and Yash would surely ascertain that!) Due to miscommunication, we couldn’t have lunch at the hotel. So we devoured biscuits and tea made with yak’s milk. 

Trongsa Dzong is the largest dzong fortress in Bhutan which overlooks the gorge of the Mangde river. Along with being a major monastic complex, it is also an administrative headquarters for the government of Trongsa District. It also contains a notable printing house which prints many religious texts – we were unable to see this due to lack of time.

We underwent an extensive interrogation at the security check – you see we were just two girls without a guide! ;) After assuring them that we will be back at the front gate without losing our way inside the complex, they let us in. And we understood what they meant the moment we entered the first courtyard. The complex was massive! Several doors on all sides, all leading to other gathering spaces which had more doors.  Phewww!! We hit potluck when we stumbled into an external door which lead to the mountains and view of the gorge nestled between these ranges.  By this time we were not interested in looking for the temple – finding the secrets of the complex was on the agenda. Luckily, there were no other visitors and we were on our own. 

Our driver went to have late lunch in the town and had disappeared. This gave us time by ourselves outside the monastery. While Yash was connecting to people with her 3G connection (which mysteriously got activated here), it gave me an opportunity to ‘people-watch’. 

Dinner consisted of soup and Shabalay – vegetarian version. And I knew this is one recipe which I have to try cooking at home. Generally they are made of beef or mutton filling but mine was filled with two types of cheese and ginger. 

One cannot travel to any part in Bhutan except Paro and Thimpu. A travel permit is needed to tour the rest of the places in the country which is checked and verified at various check points! Organized. 

Like us, Bhutanese love to paint and decorate their trucks. 

Let’s see what surprises are in store in the next town.

-| Phobhjika |-
     Bhutan 

altitude – about 3300 mts
temperature – 2 deg C / (-) 2deg C

We were a little sad that this is our last town in the trip. But the road and landscape was so gorgeous that it was difficult to stay gloomy. We were heading to Phobjika also known as Gangtey Valley. We had read that it is a vast U-shaped glacial valley. 

The road to Phojikha diverges from the main road before the Pele La and then is a 1.5km drive through forests to the Lowa (3360mts) , where we encountered a few stray yaks. We lost our way here but the most incredible thing is that I didn’t mind as it meant more views of stunning landscape. 

Once we reached the pass, the trees disappeared and the scenery switched dramatically to low-lying dwarf bamboo as the road descended to the village (Gangte village I presume).

(our resort - Dewachen Resort)

Our lunch  was steaming hot when it arrived and grew stone cold in a few minutes. And man, was it cold! Even Yash was all bundled up. We had an option to visit the Gangtey monastery but we chose not to, we had our share of monasteries. We decided to visit the carpet weaving factory and Black Necked Crane Centre and then one stroll in the village.


As luck would have it, both the carpet weaving factory and centre were shut – oops. But that disappointment was more than made up by the dazzling sights which this valley had to offer.   

The long walk to the village was filled with peace and stillness. The only sounds were occasional moos from cows and yaks and the wind swishing by us. We had understood and accepted the redundancy of language. Some people feel uncomfortable with silence but we didn’t need to fill space with words. We were freed from the need to communicate. I didn’t have to share my thoughts; I didn’t need to converse. I didn’t say absolutely anything for hours and Yash was not offended. This became my most treasured day – I had the liberty of silence. 

On our way back to Paro, we met a road block as road extension was going on. And we met traffic for the first time in Bhutan – but the most wonderful thing was no honking. The cars, trucks, tempos were parked and drivers formed groups to exchange news / gossip. Wish they had tea vendors who sold chai so that we could have passed time more comfortably. 

(since the road were circuitous, we often went at a speed of 20km/hr) 
 

Thankfully we didn’t encounter rain until the last day. It was colder in Paro from our first few days there. The clouds formed a ring around the mountain peaks just like how we see in films but think it can never be true. 

Fast facts about my trip:

1.       We covered the west and central Bhutan

2.       We travelled approximately 1800kms

3.       We had an altitude variation from 1200mts to 3300mts

4.       We trekked 1200mts one way

5.       Experienced temperatures from (-)2 degree Celsius to  12 degree Celsius (Can I included Kolkatta which hit 40deg??? )

6.       I craved for sugar in my diet and Yash missed salt!  

Alongside Bhutan's internationally applauded concept of Gross National Happiness, the jaw-dropping landscapes, and the plethora of Buddhist sights, the country takes a distinct pride in its cultural heritage in arts and crafts, and along with painting, weaving and woodwork, paper making is one of them.

While young people here as much as anywhere stare at their smart devices and wear the latest candy-colored headphones, keeping old wisdom alive and kicking is one of the pillars of the country's master plan for happiness, and this is visible in architecture, clothing and products for everyday life.

Tashi Delek!

-| Parallels |- 

Embroidery and fabrication

Is there any connection between the two? Maybe not when they are just read as words.

The more our project is progressing,  the more I am able to find parallels between these two arts. Both need groundwork, sorting, managing,  detailing and execution.  and yes, the more precise the detailing,  the better the end product.

The process of embroidery starts with creating a design, selecting cloth,  type of threads,  colour palette, needles, sitting in that cosy corner with ample light and music floating in the air. I am generally in another world when I am pushing the needle in and out of the cloth, intent on  making sure the stitch is perfect for the design I had in mind. Once in a while,  I come out of my trance to look at the entire piece. The satisfaction and joy of seeing all those small stitches create a beautiful pattern  is something I cannot describe fully here.

I am experiencing similar emotions when our building is fabricated as per the details we had envisioned on paper (actually,  computer screen). We  went through the process of selecting MS plate thickness, types of weld, seeing mockups of joints, finishes, deciding the process of execution. It is a much bigger and slower process.

With vital questions asked, silly doubts raised, camaraderie formed between all involved and of course numerous cups of chai! When the structure is raised,  there is collective moment of pride and smiles. Then an urge to refine it further takes over and everybody plunges to make sure the final result is perfect.

The major difference between the two is the fact that embroidery is a very personal projection of creativity and emotions. Whereas fabrication is a combined  art of architect, structural engineer and the entire team of fabricators with all machinery. And as in any art, when one doesn't notice the details the more simple and refined is the outcome.

-| thoughts |-

In shallow men the fish of little thoughts cause much commotion.
In oceanic minds the whales of inspiration make hardly a ruffle... 

Hindu scripture saying 

-| my technology |- 

Conversation with my brother (B2) and sister in law (B3): 
B2: what kind of phone do you wish to buy?
PP: Medium screen, not very heavy
(B2 and B3 exchange glances) 
B3: okay, any specifications?
PP: Should fit my pocket! 
(I was sure they were going to be exasperated soon, so I add ) 
A phone where I can call people and send messages / emails , you can decide other specs for me! 
(that bought relived smiles from both) ;) 


Well, as most of you know I am not abreast with technology. And currently have no inclinations to try as well. Not that I do not have brains for it - it just doesn't interest me. I do not feel ashamed to accept that I live in the 'stone age' of  technology - okay maybe not the paleolithic stage but more in the neolithic one ( hey I am typing this blog , ain't I!? )  

Sometimes, I feel technology traps you. You get so addicted to it, that your life circles around it. Check mails, look for updates, take pictures (not for your pleasure but for 'uploading' them),  try getting the stupid coloured jellies in line so you can go to the next level! What happened to the good old days where you chatted face to face? Where photographs were treasure troves of memories? Where reading book meant feeling the cover, smelling the ink on the crisp pages?